Creature of the day:  Blue-grey Tanager

So Michelle and I went back to the Monkey Garden this morning for a bird walk.  It was- wonderful, I think.  Although I didn't see many birds- my norm for birdwatching- birds were seen, and the garden is so spectacular early in the morning that it didn't matter.  Our guide was a kid from the Smithsonian outpost here, steeped in tropical ecology and a very informed birder.  For what I missed, see Birds of Panama.  Especially the national bird.

There's an impressive botanical garden here, owned by a British couple with apparently unlimited energy.  They've managed to pave winding trails around the hills of a 20 acre site, and cover the whole place with exotic plants.  All the tropical Greatest Hits:  gingers, palms, heleconias, orchids.  Figs- insects love figs.  Nutmeg.  Papayas.  A small vanilla plantation.  We joined our friends Vern and Michelle, and trailed after a large Panamanian family all dressed in the latest resort fashion.  They were at least as interesting as the plants.


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First glimpse of Panama:  we arrived!  It's nice!  we like it!
It's warmer here, with no wind- the sailors go crazy.  So far, the water's nice- some coral action, and lots of sea grass.  The town of Bocas is wonderfully entertaining, esp. as we recall its 1995 version (before paving).  It's now a prime tourist destination, with all the attendant pizza joints, tour operators, and providers of filmy Indian garments.  Also kick-ass Chinese hardware stores- thrilling for Lorenzo.  We anchored near town to check in, but there are lots of small islands and coves around to visit.  


PS- The cats went through a quarantine inspection.  Yesterday, a day after we checked in, an official of the port arrived by lancha (piloted by his teenage son).  He asked to see the cats- who had already met the immigration crew- and check their papers.  Lucky they have papers, from the vet in Key West.  He asked a few questions, like how to translate 'domestic short-hair'.  They passed.  $26.

Cayos Albuquerque

This is a coral atoll with two significant islands- one a Columbian military base, the other occupied by fishermen who trade back in San Andres.  They sold us a delicious 6 lb. horseeye jack, enough for 3 meals (human and feline).

Sunday morning we went out to swim along the surf break.  This is usually where the good snorkeling is, where fish come in from the ocean to feed on the coral 

Here, instead of waves breaking on a shallow area of coral, there were caverns as deep as 30 or 40 feet hollowed out beneath us.  We had to find passages through the coral.

Up top, the surf was crashing- not too hard, though.  It wouldn't be fun to get pounded on this stuff.  The fish were surging about:  ocean triggerfish, blue tangs, black durgons, midnight parrotfish, grey snapper.  And nurse sharks, basking in any secluded spot.  They seem to think that if their noses are under a ledge, that counts as a hiding place.  

Our plan is to leave Providencia tomorrow morning and head for Bocas del Toro.  San Andres, 55 miles to the south, is a convenient stop.  From there, it's about 30 hours nonstop to Panama.

I've been going around taking pictures of this lovely place.  

Traffic jam in front of City Hall

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Horserace:  This is the exuberance at the end- of course I didn't get any pictures of the actual race.  Two horses ran a half mile or so along the beach.  Ten thousand dollar purse, lots of betting involved.  The locals then spent the afternoon listening to music and engaging in the main local activity:  flirting.  The tourists hung together to practice our main activities:  eating seafood and drinking, while trading stories about other places.


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I want to take pictures of Providencia's most stunning attractions, but it's such a low key place.  Here's Lorenzo at the bakery.  Croissants, pastries with guava jelly, palmier cookies.  Instant coffee.  Ice cream that is strictly a concept.  

We met Felipe ('cause no diving in heaven) and as there's no resisting him, we went diving.

The thing is, you will have a good time with Felipe.

On the first dive, we went to 70 feet. Unremarkable site- few fish, dead coral. He immediately found and speared a lion fish. A 5' shark came out of nowhere. Soon we were surrounded by mid-size sharks (Black Tip) waiting for a treat. He continued to spear lion fish and feed the sharks, taunting them toreador style.

The next dive took place entirely at 30 feet, and featured schools and schools of fish- mostly squirrelfish and grunts. So thousands of pink and yellow fish, just hanging out. It was like a flower garden. On closer inspection, we found flounder, rays, rockfish, tiger snapper, etc.

I hope someone sends us pictures.