Blue Tangs, with one interloper

Sharp-nosed puffer fish

 this lovely turtle was hanging out with Lorenzo- when he saw me, he took off!

Yoga every morning (except the rainy ones).  The whalebones were collected when they washed up the island.  And the conch are everywhere.

Spot-fin Porcupinefish:  we see these guys hiding under rocks all around the reef.  They're poisonous, so have limited appeal to fishermen.

I think the fish are starting to cooperate.

Did some welding, trying to keep the chain from wrapping around the top fluke as the boat swings about at anchor.  No fun untangling a 350 lb anchor in the water- last time I had to put the bow into a sandbar, and several of us wrestled with it from our dinghies for half an hour.

A couple of guys just rowed up with the biggest grouper we've ever seen.  Goliath, maybe.

Our friends from the Panama Aeronaval were back this morning for coffee.  They stayed for lunch and a swim, and gave each other haircuts.  Such sweet guys.  

These Rainbow Parrotfish are the best- three or four feet long, in groups they seem more like herds than schools.  They graze on coral and eject contrails of parrot poop whenever they feel like moving.

It's been calm enough to swim outside the reef lately.  Lots of fishy action- but murky and hard to distinguish the players from the background.  The Nurse Sharks are always cooperative, though.

great lightening storm last night!

A lovely Nurse Shark- big enough to spot from a distance.  It awoke from its nap, slowly swam off- and then rolled over and gave its back a good scratch on the sand.

yay- camera works under water!  still some issues with smaller creatures unwilling to hold a pose. 

at one point we were ALL home at the same time- except Donny, in far-off Buffalo.  But we visited.  A rare treat.

more pix!

so we just hung out and cooked!
This is what goes on here:  trips to the market, discussions of food. looking up recipes, cooking, and then eating.  And cleaning up, while making a shopping list.  
I love the first world:  when rhubarb is called for, you go out and pick some.  Or, failing that, buy some.

Fun at Niagara Falls- it had to be the windiest, coldest day in August ever.  We were drenched by the time we got ON the boat.  Afterwards, instead of hiking the area, we dried off at the culinary academy conveniently located among the souvenir shops.  Andrew has a summer job at the falls as a roving naturalist, but as he works at the bottom of 348 steps, we didn't visit him at work.

Our old house on Fruit Hill Ave.  Abby and I were driving around yesterday.  We walked around her neighborhood, Federal Hill, which has turned into delightful place since I saw it last.  Hit a wonderful deli for non-Panamanian ingredients (porcini).  Sped throgh Olneyville and North Providence, the East Side and Wickenden St.  Had dinner at an Asian fusion place, and pined for desserts at a fabulous bakery.  Drank our to-go coffees at the oudoor mall on Federal Hill, to the tunes of a Frank Sinatra impersonator.  I have never seen so many guys with cigars.  Post-Sopranos Little Italy.

At Muzz's in Portsmouth.  Meg and Pippa are here, both working overtime to keep pace with the summer influx.  Meg has her gardens, and Pippa's working two retail jobs- in a gallery and Starbucks.  Elle was here yesterday, doing errands with Muzz.  And Pam and Jas took me paddling over in Tiverton- great spot.  It's so nice to be outdoors here- the sun's less intense, the colors more muted- and I can stay in the water longer!

I'm at Marty and Nancy's place in Boston, so we're running around the city.  We just got back from the MFA:  contemporary art, new video art, kid art, and post-Impressionists before we collapsed.  I noticed at least 3 restaurants, so there were frequent coffee/ dessert breaks.  The lovely rear entrance on the Fenway is flanked by giant bronze baby heads.  

Visit to Isla Tigre last week.  What a great place!  Everyone sits outside their houses sewing and gabbing.  Girls all play volleyball, boys, soccer.  There was a restaurant!  And a tourist! (Norwegian).  Also two other boats, both with kids.  We went to an early-morning ritual for a girl coming of age, sort of a debut/quinceaña with shamanistic trappings.  Would have stayed for the whole party- four days- but seas got too high in the harbor and we had to go.  We'll be back.

We're visiting some of the Kuna islands closer to the mainland- and farther from the surf.  Yesterday we were on Isla Maquina.  They're known for their molas.

molas!        molas!        yet more molas!

Lorenzo gets out of jail, not exactly free.  
The police stopped our car on the road Monday and found his visa was overdue; then, instead of cautioning him to go get it renewed, they took him off to immigration jail.  Where he stayed for two days.  Very exciting outside, as we tried to find him, first, and then get him out.  A nice male bonding experience, he said, if a bit crowded.

Justino's family visited us on Sunday to take him back home to the Robesons.  He worked for us here for a week and got an impressive amount done- painting, scraping, cleaning.  He cleaned the bottom of our boat in a matter of hours- no small feat.  He had to go home to be an election monitor on voting day- May 2.  Can't wait to hear the stories.

more pix!

This was a fun evening.  A navy patrol boat pulled alongside us and asked if they could rest for the night- eight guys and a black lab (who stayed outside in his cage).  They cooked dinner, recharged their electronics, and worked on their English vs. my Spanish.  So we have the ideal support boat here.

On Bug Island with dog friend Loki.  

(what does Cleo think?)

Muzz with Shalhevet- this is her first great-grandchild.

more pix!

Presidential elections are coming up in May, and there are many candidates.  We saw the posters in Panama City- and stocked up on boat paint and groceries.  Always crazy, always fun.

Ulu races!  yesterday was regatta day in the Robesons-  Justino has been looking forward to this for weeks.  Fourteen boats sailed in the race, all homemade ulus from surrounding islands.  Cruisers in the anchorage- 12 at last count- each contributed $5 to the prize money.

Here's the crew that finished in second place- we're aboard Alliance, a beautiful schooner that sailed down here from Virginia.  Afterwards the more intrepid sailors took rides in the ulus.

Justino

Gerti Island:  boys, girls, new boat, grandmother 

Sunday we went to Porvenir for gas and provisions (we found only onions).  Justino and his daughter  Renileida came along for the ride.  After a few hours together, I noticed her shirt says 'Glamour'.

First glimpse of the Robeson Islands.  We brought Justino back to his home here yesterday and plan to spend a couple of weeks, so he can work on our boat.  Painting, mostly.  Lots of rust to chip!  it seems like a lovely place- very tranquil, except for a 3-day chicha party going on currently.  To celebrate a girl's coming of age, her family saves for months to throw a huge drunken bash.  Any adult who can survive the drinking regime is welcome to attend.